It’s not surprising that one of the most common modifications made by riders is optimizing rolling stock given the long list of observable advantages. Your bike’s wheels literally keep you moving and have a big impact on how smooth your ride is. Yes, the drivetrain will propel you along, and yes, the frame will also significantly affect how the ride feels, but the wheels are the first component of the bike to experience road vibrations, surface imperfections, and changes in terrain.
The ability of a wheelset to translate your efforts on the bike into results on the road is one of its most crucial qualities. As such, choosing the right wheels for your riding style is crucial, as is having a dependable set that still provides sound levels of performance.
So read this buyer’s guide for all the information you need on road bike wheels before you shell out for a brand-new set of hoops.
Table of Contents
Anatomy Of A Wheel
There are four main parts that make up a bicycle wheel, and each one affects the wheel’s weight, performance, and durability. It’s important to understand each of these components and how it relates to better performance on the road because upgrading (or downgrading) them can impact the ride quality, your effort output (speed), and braking performance.
Rim: The wheel’s rim, which is located on the outside of the wheel, serves as both a holding surface for the tire and a braking surface (for rim-brake bikes, not disc-equipped bikes) for the wheel. The braking performance will depend on the braking surface material, and the rim width will affect the tyre width, which could significantly affect rider comfort.
Hub: The hub, which is at the center, serves as the rotational axis. The axle that secures the wheel to the bicycle is housed inside of each hub, front and back. A cassette is attached to the splines on the hub of the back wheel. The drivetrain of the bicycle, which includes the crankset and shifters, is formed by the chain wrapping around the cassette’s sprockets. All road bike wheels, with the exception of fixed-wheel bikes, use a rear hub with a “freehub” mechanism that allows the bike to coast as well as move the vehicle forward.
Spokes: Connecting material between the hub and the rim. Between the front and rear wheels, there will be a difference in spoke count, with the rear wheels frequently having more spokes for increased stiffness and strength. A wheel with more spokes is typically stronger, but it also weighs more. To maximize strength or to improve aerodynamics, or sometimes both, spokes come in a variety of materials and shapes. Steel wire is typically used to make spokes, but their shape and diameter can vary significantly.
Nipples: A unique nut called a “nipple” secures the spoke to the wheel. Nipples are crucial for adjusting spoke tension, which “trues” a wheel and makes it spin straightly.
Why Is A Wheel Good?
Choosing a good wheel will depend largely on its intended purpose, however whilst difficult to nail all aspects, ideally a good set of wheels will be durable, have dependable hubs, provide confidence-inspiring braking, be stiff for power transfer, yet also be lightweight.
Lightweight wheels keep rotating weight down by having a shallow rim profile and low spoke count. Comfort is an added bonus, in addition to the overall weight reduction. Conversely, lighter wheels frequently offer good levels of compliance. Deeper wheels are fast, but the ride quality is frequently described as “harsh.” Some incredibly light wheelsets weigh less than 1,000 grams for the pair, which is the standard for high-quality lightweight wheelsets.
Aerodynamic wheels aim to be as fast as possible by reducing drag. Wheels designed for aerodynamic flight are typically wider and have rim depths greater than 40mm. The extra material does add weight, and deep-section wheels are more vulnerable to crosswinds, which can make them difficult to handle and reduce speed.
Wheelsets not so focused on performance commonly have features that make them more appropriate for everyday use or general training. In comparison to carbon fiber, aluminum’s braking surface performs better in all weather conditions. Higher spoke counts are used to increasing strength, and the rim’s width is wider to accommodate larger tires. These features result in an increase in weight, with high-quality wheelsets typically weighing between 1,500 and 1,800 grams.
Wheelsets designed for loaded touring or to withstand regular use under heavier riders (120kg +) are typically hand-built with higher spoke counts of 32 or even 36 spokes. Due to the added strength, wheels of this kind typically weigh more than 1,900 grams.
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Rim Material
While high-level wheels typically have rims made of carbon fiber, which reduces weight while increasing stiffness, entry to intermediate-level wheels typically have rims made of aluminum of varying quality.
Carbon fiber rims typically perform poorly in the wet and on lengthy descents as heat accumulates under braking, whereas aluminum rims offer better braking performance. On the basis of this, some brands offer braking surfaces made of aluminum attached to carbon fiber wheels. But it’s important to keep in mind that these patterns are frequently heavier than a rim made of a single material.
Braking: Rim Or Disc
The transition to disc brakes has already started, and they are quickly taking over as the standard on road bikes. By abandoning rim and traditional caliper braking, manufacturers are free to experiment with frame and wheel designs, as well as take advantage of the obvious advantages of more powerful stopping.
In order to fit into small fork and frame clearances, wheelsets with disc brakes are not required to have a brake track or confirm a specific width. As a result, wheelsets for bikes with disc brakes can be modified to have a different profile for better aerodynamics and performance. The disadvantage is that stronger wheelsets for disc-equipped bikes will be required to handle the extra braking forces, which could potentially cancel out any weight savings or other performance improvements. Although the weight closer to the hub has a much smaller effect on how light the wheel rides, the weight saved at the outside of the wheel (rim) has a much larger effect.
The performance of carbon wheels, which traditionally have subpar braking when compared to wheels with an aluminium brake track, is a huge advantage. Without sacrificing braking effectiveness, disc brakes enable carbon wheels’ performance advantages to be maintained (or even increased).
Disk brake wheels should not be confused with aerodynamic “disc” wheels, which are constructed as a single piece from hub to rim to reduce wind turbulence during time trial racing events.
Wheel Dimensions: Width And Depth
The depth and width of a wheel’s rim have a significant impact on how it rides and feels.
Wider modern wheels are in style, which improves comfort and aerodynamics by increasing the volume of the tires under the vehicle. This occurs at the same time that larger tires are being used, which are claimed to provide better (lower) rolling resistance and increased comfort by operating under less pressure.
There are two ways to measure rim width, which could result in some muddled numbers. It’s usually an internal measurement when a brand uses a number and the letter “C” to refer to it. According to current guidelines, a road rim is considered narrow when measured internally if it is less than 15mm, and wide when it is greater than 17mm. When measuring externally, anything less than 19mm is regarded as narrow, and anything greater than 22mm as wide.
While closely related, the internal rim width will primarily affect comfort, rolling efficiency, or tyre shape, while the external rim width will mostly affect the wheels’ aerodynamics.
The aerodynamics of the wheel and a bike’s handling will be impacted by the rim depth. In general, deeper rims are more aerodynamic but also more difficult to handle because they are more susceptible to side winds than shallower rims. A harsher ride will result from the additional material needed, as a shallower wheel would provide more compliance. It’s important to keep in mind that not all deep rims are created equal, and brand differences greatly affect the precise profile. The best choices can travel at high speeds while maintaining good control in crosswinds.
Deep-section wheels typically have a nipple-to-rim distance of at least 40mm, and some have a nipple distance of over 80mm.
Spokes
A wheel’s spoken count, shape, and material will differ. High spoke counts (having many spokes) increase robustness and durability but add weight. Steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, and titanium are just a few of the different materials that can be used for spokes. The majority of spokes are by far made of steel.
The number of spokes on the front and rear wheels will differ, with the rear wheels having more spokes as more forces (drive forces and additional weight load) are applied. The spoke count on a front wheel for a light vehicle will typically range from 18 to 24 while the spoke count on a rear wheel will typically range from 20 to 28. The early days of wheel construction saw front wheels with over 30 spokes and rear wheels with over 40 spokes. This is a stark contrast. Reduced spoke counts result in lighter wheels without sacrificing performance as manufacturing techniques and materials have improved.
Some minor aerodynamic benefits can be obtained by using a flat spoke, also known as a “bladed spoke,” as opposed to one that is rounded. Bladed spokes, while more expensive, also aid in weight reduction without compromising strength.
Both “straight pull” and “J-bend” spokes are considered standard. ‘The more conventional choice is “J-bend” spokes, which have a 90-degree bend that resembles a “J” at the hub end. Straight pull spokes have no bend at the head and require special hubs.
Less weight, stiffer, more responsive wheels, and better alignment are all advantages of the straight pull spokes. Straight pull spokes have the disadvantage that many businesses only produce their own hubs and spokes, making it difficult and potentially expensive to find a replacement. J-bend spokes perform similarly to straight pull spokes in terms of quality and strength and are frequently simpler to replace.
When examining circular spokes, the term “butting” or “butted” will appear. A double-butted spoke would offer two different diameters along its length because butting is simply the process of varying the thickness. Straight gauge (one diameter) spokes tend to be weaker and less long-lasting than butted spokes because they are less effective at reducing stress fatigue.
Freehub
The rear wheel hub’s freehub serves two purposes. to drive the rear wheel and allow it to coast. You must pedal continuously while riding a bike with a fixed hub because it cannot coast and drives both the front and rear wheels.
Make sure your gears are compatible because different manufacturers have different freehubs. A spline system is used by both Campagnolo and Shimano freehubs to attach the cassette to the freehub, but because the diameter and type of spline are different, they are incompatible. With Shimano freehubs, SRAM cassettes will function, but not with Campagnolo.
Most recently released wheels that are 11-speed compatible have wider freehub bodies to accommodate the wider spacing of 11-speed cassettes. These are backward compatible with cassettes with speeds 8, 9, and 10 with just a simple washer. With the exception of Campagnolo wheels and cassettes, older 8, 9, or 10-speed hubs cannot be used with an 11-speed cassette.
Bearings
The quality of the parts used rises along with the price of the wheelset. In the case of bearings inside the hub, they typically switch from steel to ceramic. Because a good ceramic bearing is smoother, rounder, and harder than an equivalent steel bearing, it has less friction and performs better. But a high-quality steel bearing will typically outperform and last longer than a cheap ceramic bearing.
Proper lubrication will affect how the bearings roll and the level of friction produced, in addition to the bearings’ material. Wheels perform worse and move more slowly due to bearing friction. Excessive friction happens if the bearings are improperly lubricated, if debris or other materials get inside the bearings, or if high-pressure washes remove the bearings’ lubricant. Here, better hubs provide better sealing against the elements, keeping the wheels rolling more smoothly for longer.
Less friction results from lubricant viscosity that is lower, but durability may suffer as a result.
Bearings can be either cartridge (sealed) or loose balls (cup and cone). An inner and outer race, with the bearings sandwiched in between, is part of the cartridge or sealed system, which is housed in a single piece. The axle is then inserted through the center of the cartridge bearing as it is pressed into the hub shell. Since a sealed bearing is a single unit, replacing the entire bearing cartridge is necessary if it wears out but is relatively inexpensive to do.
Shimano products and entry-level wheels are the most likely to have the loose ball, cup, or cone bearings. Cone and cup bearings come in several pieces and have loose bearings. Unlike cartridge bearings, which are enclosed, loose ball bearings are sandwiched between an adjustable cone-shaped inner race that is threaded onto the axle and a fixed outer race that is typically a component of the hub shell. The hub surfaces may become so damaged by excessive bearing wear that the hub must be entirely replaced. Positively, they are simple to maintain so that this doesn’t happen. You’ll need a few specialized thin spanners called “cone wrenches” to repair such a hub.
Tyre Types
Knowing which of the three types of wheels each type of tire fits on is important because each type needs a particular rim. The wheel will indicate which type of tire it is compatible with—”clincher,” “tubular,” or “tubeless”—and tyres come in one of three shapes. The majority of road bikes for sale will have clincher tires, which require an inner tube to maintain air pressure.
Clincher
presently used on road bikes in the most widespread configuration. Any newly purchased bike should be expected to have clincher tyres unless otherwise specified. Clincher tires have a steel or kevlar fiber bead on their edge to hold them in the rim, and they need a tube to inflate and hold air.
Tubular
Although in a very different way, tubular also use an inner tube. A tubular tire’s inner tube is sewn firmly to the tire, which is then glued or stuck to the rim. Tubular tires are almost exclusively used by professional racers due to their lighter weight, improved rolling resistance, and improved road feels. Tubulars can also be ridden on with only a minimal risk of the tyre coming off the rim in the event of a flat tire.
The disadvantage of tubular tires is the laborious task of replacing the tire should you get a flat, as well as the time-consuming process required to first apply the tire to the rim. When you consider the cost of these tires, it is unquestionably an item that should only be used by ardent racers.
Tubeless
Tubeless tires have been popular in mountain biking for a while, and they are now slowly making their way to the world of road bikes. Since 2015, the majority of Trek’s road bikes have had “tubeless ready” rims, and as of 2017, Giant has only offered tubeless tires on its most expensive models.
As the name implies, tubeless tires don’t need inner tubes and instead attach to a particular type of rim to form an airtight seal. It uses technology that is very similar to that of today’s automobiles and motorcycles.
Because they can be operated at lower pressures, provide greater comfort, and reduce friction better than clincher tires, tubeless tires are thought to provide better puncture protection. Tubeless tyres can be used to prevent punctures and liquid sealant can be inserted into the tyre to help quickly seal small punctures if they do happen. Visit our comprehensive guide to road bike tyres for more information on tyre types, how they affect road performance, and how to choose the right one.
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Factory Vs Hand Built
Although many “factory built” wheels are actually handcrafted, each wheel set has very distinct qualities.
Factory-built wheels frequently have exclusive spoke and rim designs and are mass-produced to precise specifications. They are intended to be purchased off the shelf or in combination with a manufacturer’s bike. These wheels rule the roost in this market thanks to extensive research, development, and marketing. Wheels from Shimano, Mavic, Fulcrum, and Zipp are a few brands that fall under this category.
On the other hand, custom-made hubs, spokes, nipples, and rims make hand-built wheels distinctive. Handcrafted wheels are made specifically to a rider’s preferences and requirements.
Wheel Maintenance
‘True’ wheels: True refers to your wheel tracking directly ahead with no deviation. If your wheel is out of true, it could cause friction with your brakes or have a negative impact on how the bike handles. Any neighborhood bike shop can true your wheel by adjusting spoke tension.
Brake pad replacement Worn brake pads will decrease stopping power and, if they break, could possibly hurt you or your rims. On most bikes, changing your brake pads is a straightforward process that you can complete on your own with a small Allen key and a fresh set of brake pads.
Clean your bearings: It might be necessary to grease and clean out your hub bearings on a semi-regular basis. The precise time frame will vary depending on the caliber of your hubs, how frequently you ride, and the weather where you ride. Unless you are an expert bike mechanic, it is probably best to leave this job to your neighborhood bike shop. However, if you think it might be affecting the performance of your wheels, be sure to mention it to them when you take your bike in for its regular service.
Inspect the rim: Rim brakes cause the rim to wear out each time you brake. When the rim thins as a result of friction, the structural integrity of the wheel may be compromised if this condition is not addressed. To prevent this, inspect the rim on a regular basis to look for any clear grooving and keep an eye on the rim wear indicators, which are typically either a small hole or groove in the rim to show how much material is still there.
Buyer’s Guide To Bicycle Wheelsets
At the shop, we like to think of wheels as the bicycle’s wings. You sway and can hardly enjoy riding when they are heavy, old, beat up, or out of truth. You can soar over the road and trail with speed, accuracy, and grace thanks to nicely engineered hoops that are built light and strong.
4 Reasons Why Wheels Matter So Much
Bicycle wheels look spider-web delicate with their impossibly thin spokes, light and frequently skinny rims, and minimal hubs, but they are actually a marvel of engineering that are remarkably strong and exceptionally well suited to cycling. Here’s why they’re so crucial:
1. Ride quality. Wheels play a significant role in how the ride feels because they are the bike’s points of contact with the ground. For instance, a robust wheel designed to withstand the rigors of downhilling resists flex more than one designed for cross country, so the former will feel stiff, while the XC will be more supple. Similar to how road rims with slimmer all-around designs are superior to tall-section triangular, aero triathlon, and time trial wheels for cutting through the wind.
2. Ease of pedaling. The majority of the time, your pedaling keeps the wheels turning even though they are always spinning. Because of inertia, it requires more effort to turn your wheels the more weight there is on the outside of the wheels (the rims, tubes, and tires). Consider how much less effective and labor-intensive your machine would be if it had car tires and wheels instead of bicycle ones for wheels. When you’re climbing and accelerating, you’ll notice this more than when you’re riding steadily along the flats (heavier hoops actually help you maintain your speed better).
3. Reliability. The wheels are what stand between you and the ground, as we mentioned in the first reason. No matter what you ride over or through, they must support your weight and continue to roll. Rim brakes must remain true and round so that your brakes function safely as well. These actions won’t last long on wheels of poor quality. Models of high quality will roll consistently and stably for many years.
4. Functionality. Your bike’s wheels need to suit your riding style because they are the component that undergoes the most wear and tear. You might decide to mount racks and bags to your nice bike after you purchase it so you can transport heavy objects like tools or groceries. This way, your stock wheels can be put to a lot more stress than they were intended to endure pretty quickly. Another possibility is that you want to convert your bike to a fixie and won’t be content until your rims are the appropriate shade. The wide variety of purpose-built wheels available today make it simple to satisfy these needs and more with new wheels. However, how do you choose the best wheels once you’ve made the decision that it’s time for an upgrade? In actuality, it’s quite simple. Simply look at the tire’s label to determine the size since you already know what bike they are for. That information, which includes both the tire and wheel sizes, should be noted because it serves as the basis for choosing the appropriate wheels. If you’re unsure, you can also just stop by the store while riding your bike, and we’ll check it out and let you know.
Next, consider what you want these new wheels to accomplish for you. Perhaps you need to replace some worn-out, crooked wheels and are looking for a set that will withstand your riding style better. Perhaps you want to ride more comfortably on some better-designed, lighter-weight wheels. Or it might be an additional set of “event” wheels to give you an advantage on particular types of courses, or race wheels to take the place of your heavier, slower training wheels on the big day. If you could let us know what kind of wheels you are looking for, we could direct you to the ideal set
Options And Tips On Deciding
The common characteristics of modern road, tri, and mountain wheels are listed below, along with some guidelines to help you decide which is best for you, your bicycle, and your riding
Wheel Types
One place to begin is with the obvious distinction between wheels for the road and wheels for the dirt. Depending on your bike, you can determine whether the off-road wheels you’re considering are designed for disc brakes or are compatible with rim brakes. The difference is that wheels for disc brakes typically have rims without a true braking surface, which reduces weight at the rim, and hubs that accept the rotors, which are what disc brakes grab.
The rim sides of rim-brake wheels are designed to withstand the wear and tear of rim brakes and lack any provision for mounting rotors. Be aware that you can also find wheels for two bikes, one with rim brakes and one with disc brakes. They’ll have a hub configuration that can accommodate rotors and a rim designed for braking.
Road wheels come in a variety of all-purpose designs that provide a smooth ride and long-lasting performance and are perfect for replacing a worn-out set. There are also models made to give you some extra speed based on how you use them. For instance, there are road wheels that are all-around road wheels that combine lightness, aerodynamics, and a comfortable ride, as well as climbing wheels that are built lighter for easier ascent.
Tube Or Tubeless
You can also choose between standard wheels and “tubeless” wheels. When a rim is described as tubeless, it means that it was designed to offer an airtight seal for use with tubeless tires. This is crucial because tubeless tires can be used without inner tubes, allowing for the use of lower pressures for a smoother ride, more traction, and greater control.
While it is possible to install tubeless tires on standard wheels using a conversion kit, buying wheels specifically made for tubeless means easier tire installation and eliminates the need for conversion rim strips. Therefore, if you like riding tubeless on pavement or in the dirt, you should think about switching to tubeless wheels. Also take note that all of these wheels accept regular tires and tubes.
Tubular Wheels
Consider “tubular” wheels, the lightest and most unusual wheels available, if you race on the road. Due to the fact that the tire is actually sewn together around the tube, they need specialized tires known as “tubulars” or “sew-ups.” They are glued to the rim and have tires with genuinely rounded profiles. The quickness and suppleness of these light, round-profile tires is adored by supporters of this design, who don’t mind the trickier mounting process.
Rim Shape
How the wheel rides is significantly influenced by the rim’s shape. More road and trail sensation is felt with stiffer rims. Additionally, the ride becomes more rigid the deeper (tall) and more triangulated a rim is. On smooth surfaces, stiffness is typically less noticeable than on rougher ones. Additionally, stiffness is advantageous for racing and hammering because more of your power is transferred to the roa
Look at wheels with deep-section rims, which can be as tall as 90mm or more, if you’re looking for slippery wheels for an advantage in triathlons or time trials, or even for getting the most rest possible sitting in the pack at your road races and then sprinting faster for the finish line. Consider wheels with smaller profiles, such as 28mm, for less weight and improved handling in crosswinds.
In addition to the rim’s depth, the width also matters. Because they spread the sides of the tire, wider rims (about 23mm) typically provide a smoother ride and greater durability. While narrower (typically 19mm) means more aerodynamic benefits and lighter weight.
Rim Material
While steel wheels are still used occasionally, they are almost never found on high-end bicycles these days because of their weight and, more importantly, how slippery they become when it rains, which reduces braking efficiency. In contrast, aluminum rims are now more commonly found on wheels. The most expensive option is carbon rims. Full-carbon bicycles go well with carbon because it can be molded into a variety of shapes, reduce weight, and save space. Recall that carbon-compatible brake pads, which we can provide, are required for carbon rims with carbon braking surfaces.
Spoke Count
The wheels’ spoke count is represented by this number. Modern wheelsets usually employ the bare minimum number necessary to accommodate the wheel design, more for heavier uses, and fewer when the wheels aren’t being pushed as hard.
We can talk about what’s best for you in person because learning more about you and how you ride reveals a lot to us. Consider your weight, the condition of the surfaces you ride on, and your style of riding, such as long, arduous miles, weekend pleasure riding, racing, etc. Wheels spin on hubs, which are the component at the center of the wheel where the spokes originate. Generally speaking, heavier cyclists on smoother surfaces can get away with using fewer spokes while bigger riders should use more. They are internally equipped with bearings and axles, and on the drivetrain side, a “freehub” or threads for cogs are used to mount a set of gears known as a “cassette.” Cassettes can be purchased separately.
All of our wheels come with high-quality hubs that are smooth, easy to maintain, and built to last. Hubs become lighter with better alloys or carbon, more sophisticated, and feature better bearings, axle components, and seals as you move up the wheel quality and price scale. The freehub frequently gets better too because the cassette drives the wheels.
